When I found the miniature I knew I would turn it into a kind of Ooze. I find it pretty hard to find cheap Ooze miniatures.
I didn't really know which kind of Ooze I would make, but then I realized Ochre Jellies are large Ooze, so that would fit and I was set on this idea.
I glued the hand in place and tried to fill the gap with modeling paste. This is the only paste I have, but it is very good for that. I will need to learn how to use milliput/greenstuff.
No more of this weird colorscheme it had before.
Heavy drybrush with some Caramel craft paint. It starts to look like an animated quicksand creature.
After more and more layers of drybrush, I'm starting to get this sandy effect.
Adding a wash to increase the contrast of the recesses.
And once the wash dried.
I decided to stray away from my initial attempt at making an Ochre Jelly and went for a custom quicksand monster instead. I painted the rocks in a purple tint, to make it look like it's a stone-related creature.
I painted the bottom half of all gem in a lighter purple.
It's hard to see, but I added some even lighter purple on top of the gem.
The previous effect didn't work as I expected, so I started highlighting the edges with a white-purplish color.
I then applied a purple wash on the gems to try to blend the previous attempts together. As you might guess, I had no clear idea of what I was doing. I didn't check any "how to paint crystals" tutorial online and just went on experimenting.
A simple boat carved out of a trunk.
And another slightly more sophisticated.
I really didn't have much in way of preparation, just cutting the small plastic parts used for the oars and that's it.
Priming them black as well.
Quick drybrush of brown and they already look like I could use them!
I got my hands on those empty homeopathic tubes. I'm sure there is something I can build with them, but I haven't found exactly what yet.
I asked on reddit, and there were a few good ideas there, but I think most people have the wrong scale in mind. Those tubes are actually pretty small; slightly taller than a lighter.
This are the 4 coasters for 50cts I bought. Full of witty jokes on the front and cork on the back.
I already had some Sewer tiles I made in the past from cork coasters, but they were unfortunately not the same scale. So instead of making more sewer tiles I decided to simply make regular tiles.
I divided them 3x3 3.5cm squares. I could have made them 4x4 2.5cm squares but I like my minis to have some breathing room. 2.5cm is the very minimum, and because I will be chopping some cork off to delimit the squares, it would have ended up too small.
Cutting the fork along the lines.
Adding some irregularities to the patterns.
Priming them black. The good thing about cork (as opposed to foam) is that you can prime it without the spray melting it.
A little drybrush and they look much better already.
A second one with some brown and green. I tried to do some irregular patterns. The last thing I tried is on the top right, brushing on the corners of the tiles, I find it gives a nice finish, I should do more of that.
So here is the broken pillar from the remnants of my attempt at lightning the tower.
I applied a fair dose of modeling paste on it. This stuff is not good for filling small gap, but perfect to add some texture to any regular plain surface.
And sanded it.
And primed black.
This looked a bit better. I can't decide if it really looks like a broken pillar or a bit of plastic on top of a bottle top.
The second dry brush gave a bit more depth. I think it looks mildly more interesting. At this point I'm starting to consider this more like a training ground than an actual piece I'll love to have on the table.
Added some grime at the bottom, to separate the base from the pillar.
A full garrison of Dwarves from the Stronghand house, supporting the official blue and red colors of their house.
This is after an evening of basecoat.
And after a Nuln Oil wash and some drybrush on the bases.
This is the first time I actually do highlights. It's pretty simple but effective. I just re-apply the basecoat colors on top of the wash, but only on the edges.
The effect is subtle, but I now feel like my miniatures look like the ones I used to see in White Dwarf when I was younger. I feel like I achieved something!
I was really uninspired by this mini for a long time and it sat on my table unpainted for months. Then I decided to try my new Citadel Contrast paints on it. It finally turned out better than I expected.
I used the green contrast on the white priming directly, used a brown contrast on the leather and then painting the metal in my usual way. The overall visual aspect is much better than what I would have achieved otherwise. Contrast paint are a great way to get it over with miniatures that don't inspire you.
In my current game, my players woke up an ancient Bat Demon during one of their exploration. I didn't anticipated that, so didn't had the right mini for it. I painted that shortly after the session, being the closest thing to a Bat Demon I could find.
In retrospect I'm happy with the fire effect. It's not fantastic, but it works. As for the rest of the colors, I think there is not enough contrast here. I should have put a lighter wash on the flesh of the wings, and/or used a more golden metal for the armor parts.
Repainted a toy canon.
I don't have pictures from the initial toy, but I did that repaint to test out my metallic paints. I also added some Typhus Corrosion on the nose, but I think I should have added even more for such a large cannon.
An Otyugh from Wrath of Ashardalon. Great mini to have when your players start exploring some sewers. The ability of the Otyugh to telepathically communicate could lead to some great RP.
As for the mini itself, I like how it turned out. Being a sewer creature, I could be sloppy in my paint job. Very rough drybrush of red and brown, picking up the teeth and details with a bone color, and using a very bright color for the tongue. This is a trick I learned after having painted too many boring miniatures: pick a very bright color for one detail, that will attract the eye.