Published 22 March 2022


This is a quick post on how I made some crates for scatter terrain. They don't look perfect, but just good enough to add some cover to an encounter.


I started with some squared beads I found in a craft shop.


I glued short bamboo sticks on the sides.


Covering all the sides took a while, as I had to wait for the glue to dry on one side before doing the next one, so I span it on several evenings while working on other projects.


It's then a first layer of black paint, overbrush of dark brown and two dry brushes of lighter browns.

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Bone piles

Published 21 March 2022


Those are some scatter bone pile terrains. Made mostly from plastic skull and skeleton leftovers, as well as spaghettis.


I cut the basic shape in some plastic, added some Vallejo stone texture on top and sprinkled various bits of plastic skeleton, skulls, spaghettis and fine sand.


I made several of them, and soaked them in wood glue heavily diluted in water (50/50 mix). This will help all the sand and pieces to really stick together.


I started with a base of bony/cream color.


I wanted to use this project as an opportunity to test oil painting, so I added some burnt sienna on top.


I thought the result were not dark enough, so I added a second diluted layer.


I think that at that point I forgot that I wanted to use oil paints and I started drybrushing them out of habit.


This doesn't look so bad, so I kept going.


I then added the traditional wash on them. I wasn't sure where to go next, so I left it at this.

If I had to do it again, I would keep adding the fine sand, but I would first dry brush in various tones of brown the whole piece, and then pick individual bones with cream paint and brown wash.

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Blacksmith forge

Published 20 March 2022


I made a blacksmith forge out of the structure of a toy. Honestly, I could have made it without the structure underneath and it might have actually turned just as good, but I like the constraint that using a pre-made structure adds.


This is the original toy I found in a second hand shop.


The plastic was very brittle, so I started by removing all the walls and unscrewing it. I would then glue it back together, but I didn't want any small part to break as I was working on it.


It was also a bit too deep, so I added a fake back wall with a foam board. I thought it could also act as some kind of house for the blacksmith.


I started working on cutting foam in bricks.


Which gave me a fair amount. I textured them by throwing them in a box with some real stones and shaking it until the stone texture was embedded in the foam bricks.


And then, it's just a matter of gluing the bricks one by one on all the walls. I do it with a glue gun, applying glue on the back of each brick and gluing them to the walls.


I added some windows and doors from Lego pieces and miniature leftovers I had.


I decorated the forge area with some more toys and miniature stuff.


Upstairs I engraved the floor with some tiles pattern, and built a shack out of some balsa wood and popsicle sticks.


To make the side slightly more interesting I ever get to play a skirmish game with this terrain, I added a small wooded part.


After a first overbrush of the base colors.


View from the other side.


Painting stones in various colors for variety, using highly diluted paint, and adding a glow effect on the embers.


Added ramshackle wooden planks as some kind of ceiling. Not sure it makes sense that a forge ceiling would be made of wood but hey.


The top shack is not glued, for easier storage and also because it can be used in other contexts.


Final glamour shots from various angles.

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Wooden toy Mordheim House

Published 22 August 2021


This is a ruined city house, with its roof destroyed by a fallen meteor.


And it all started with this nice looking little wooden house. I had seen it in my local second hand shop a couple of time. I picked it a few times, wondering what I could do with it, and always put it back. I thought the scale was off, and that fixing the giant holes in the roof would be a pain. And even if I did, it would make playing in it pretty hard.

Then one day, it occurred to me that the giant holes might not need fixing; that they might actually be desirable if I wanted to craft a meteor-destroyed house.



So I started adding wooden beams on the outside, to better delimit the ground and first floor. Those are made from insulation foam, and textured with a wood scraping brush.

I also put the same kind of wood/foam at the house angles. I hat laying bricks at angles, so this provides a nice shortcut to cover the angles and still make it look like some kind of medieval construction.


I then started laying bricks on all walls, even the interior ones. I decided not to glue this build on a base. Because the structure is already so durable (trust me, it's some really heavy and strong wood there), I knew I could just pick the build and lay it on the board anywhere and it wouldn't need a base.


More bricks, and a chimney. I glues some pins at the top of the chimney to simulate a top exhaust. Not sure if the illusion works though.


More and more brick laying. This took some time, but I did it while listening to the Dungeons of Drakkenheim podcast (very fitting in terms of atmosphere), so I had a good time.


Almost there. As you can see, I can hold the whole structure in one hand and everything stays attached. This is one of my most (if not the most) durable builds.



Now is time to cover the top floor with some wood. I took a lot of ice cream sticks, cut their rounded ends and textured them to add wood grain.


Here is what I use. It's a corx screwdriver, it has a star-like shape and with two or three passes on a stick, it simulates veins of a wooded plank.


Then I cut them into smaller bits, so I could glue them into some sem-irregular pattern (one long and one small, in alternate rows).


For durability, I used a glue gun to glue them all, but this required some precise timing as I had to glue them quickly before the glue got cold and some were sometimes hard to get to.

Upper walls


I wasn't exactly sure at first about what to do with the round windows. I decided to glue small "wood" blocks all around it. It does not make much sense from a real-life POV, but the crafting result looks good.


Covered the first floor walls with some matte gel to give it some texture.



And then started painting. My modpodge/black paint mix was a bit too diluted. I used china black ink instead of craft paint thinking that the coverage would be better but... china ink is very liquid compared to craft paint and even if the pigment is stronger, it also added a lot of "water" to my mix, resulting in a way less covering result.


Still, I started painting on it. In hindsight, it was a mistake. I should have covered the whole structure in a second (or third) layer so it would be completely black. Because I skipped this step, the underlying red can be seen between the cracks of the bricks in some places.


After a few coats, it starts to look good!



With a mini for scale. Now what I need to do is add the shingles around those giant holes.


I went with shingles of greatly varying sizes, to give this a disarrayed look, which is how I envision the old cities of the Warhammer world, with their crumbling turrets built in defiance of gravity.


For the top ridge, I wanted to add some decoration and had this plastic snake laying around, so I glued them and covered it in more shingles. In hindsight, this was a mistake. The final look of the top of the roof is weird, and I should just have cut the snake head and glued is below the roof line.


To kinda make up for my mistake I added another wooden beam on top. I honestly can't say if it's better or worse.


This time I applied several coats of my highly diluted mixture, to be sure to cover all the shingles well (I don't want to have any Golden Grahams logo showing through!)


First coat is a deep red.


Drybrush of a more orange red.


And finally a real orange on the last layer. The several layers of mixture I added to the shingles added some irregular grit which is a fortunate side effect.


The effect under my desk light was very dramatic!


I then added a wash, which had the unfortunate effect to create rippled on some of the shingles. I think it's because the pigment of the paint somehow interacted with the plastic coating of the cardboard, dissolving it. It sure added some interesting texture to the build but not what I had been looking for.


And once dried, it gave way to that pretty nice gritty effect.


I went on and colored more individual shingles in various tones of red and orange, more like a real roof.


This, alongside a similar effect done on the wall stones gave a lot more life to the build.


I added another wash on top; otherwise the colored shingles were way too visible.


And then, we could move to flocking the whole piece.


And putting watered down PVA glue on everything to really seal the flocking. This phase is still a bit scary to me. The build looks like a real mess at that stage with all those white splatters everywhere. Thankfully it all turns transparent when it's absorbed by the cardboard.

Final result




And a few glamor shots of the final results. I'm very pleased with this build. Mostly because it is durable and that's one of the main qualities I look for in my builds. But also because it conveys this feeling of decrepit city hit by a meteor very well.

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Three-headed bird statue

Published 22 August 2021


You walk into the jungle and come face to face with this horrible statue. Three bird heads stacked on top of each other, their eyes emerald green. What do you do?


This all started with this weird Angry Bird / MacDonalds toy.


I glued it on a piece of plastic to secure it in place, and glued some cheap plastic jewels in place of its eyes.


Then, I let the magic of the drybrush turn this into a statue.


I painted the eyes emerald green and added a drybrush of a yellowish green on top.


A dark brown wash on top.


And heavy flocking to give it an air of forgotten statue covered in moss.

That was a very quick build, and to be honest I didn't expect it to look so great. The original toy is pretty goofy to begin with, but the addition of the emerald eyes on top of the cartoonish birds gives it an aura of weirdness.

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Street Gargoyle Statue

Published 22 August 2021


Covered in moss and abandoned, this statue guards the streets of a city that has been deserted for a very long time.

This is tiny piece of scatter terrain that would fit well in a Mordheim-like setting.


As usual on this blog, it started with some second hand toys. The blue base comes from a Pet Shop toy, and the gargoyle itself is taken from an Halloween-themed board game.


I glued one on top of the other and added some rocks to cover the mess I did with the hot glue.


More glue...


And more pebbles, rocks and dirt.


Drybrushed everything gray, then painted a few pieces brown to make it look like rubbles. Also painted the orb green because why not.


With a bit more flocking. I might have been too heavy handed on that one.


I'm happy with the final result. It's durable, made of blocks of plastic. It's stable because the base is large. It's ubiquitous, I can put than on almost any board and it won't look out of place.

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Abandoned guard post

Published 22 August 2021


I imagine this as a forgotten guard post, hidden inside a forest, possibly the entrance to an underground bandit camp.


The original shape comes from this plastic toy; initially part of a set of stacking toys that I borrowed from my daughter. I like to re-use existing shapes and add texture to them, and I felt it had the perfect shape and scale for a small tower.

The doors


I started by gluing some ice cream sticks in the inside of the door frame, reinforcing them on the inside.


Looks legit from the outside, all I need will be a door handle and some visible hinges.


I added them once the bricks were layed, using an ear ring blocker as the handle and decorative watch handles as the hinges.

The walls


I knew I wanted to cover the walls with foam bricks. What I learned on one of my previous projects is that I should always paint the wall black before gluing the bricks, otherwise the initial color would show through the cracks between the bricks.


I glued decorative wood sticks at each angle. I hate to lay bricks in angles, it's too finicky, so I usually try to find lazy ways to cover them instead. Here it looks like structure beam. I'm not sure it makes any sense, architecturally speaking, but it looks nice.


Now, with a glue gun and a lot of patience, I glued foam bricks all around it. I kept an opening to add a window (it's a Lego piece) and some runic bead above the door to act as an ornament. In hindsight it looks a bit out of place (being a round bead in a largely square building).


I covered it all up to the first floor and kept gluing bricks to add some kind of ledge around the first floor. Large enough so miniatures can stand on.


The I picked this metallic fence from my bit box and fitted it on one side. As you can see from the background, my daughter was playing with her own fantasy beasts at the time.

The stairs


The structure was a bit plain with it being "just square", and I wanted to add some interesting bits for playability, so I started building some decrepit scaffold around it. It's basically wooden skewers that I inserted in the foam (or in spaces between foam bricks) and glued.


Then covered with textured ice cream sticks in an haphazard manner.

The first floor


I recently got my hands on a bag of those colored plastic pieces. I think they come from some kind of puzzle toy. I found their shapes interesting and wondered if I could use them as irregular stones for flooring.



I finally glued it to a plastic base. It's made from the top of a baby food box and perfectly fit the shape of the building.


Glue on the base as well as on any the top of most protruding bricks, then sprinkle of fine sand. In hindsight, I should have sprinkled larger sand grains first and finish with the fine one. I also glued a Playmobil tree on top.



And on to the first coat of paint before the real painting could start.


Overbrush on the wood and stone.


More drybrushes in lighter tones on the wood and stones again.


Picking some stones with highly diluted paint of various colors to add some variety.


Adding a black wash to tie everything together and make it look all dark and grimy.


This was the first time I attempted to make some kind of tree. I found that the shape of the Playmobil tree was pretty nice, but it was missing foliage. I have a box full of those Playmobil tree, so if I can make great foliage, I could create a whole forest pretty easily.


I had those foam cylinders from a packaging laying around, so I thought it could serve as a base for foliage. I cut them in irregular round shapes.


Painted them green.


And glued them on the tree (I also added grass flocking here and there as well). The tree do not look as good as I imagined it would.


Covered with more flocking. Didn't much improve the look, but I decided to leave it like this. My tree foliage technique is not yet working, but for a first try it's not too bad. I'll have to try again.

Final result



And here is the final result.

Overall I like this build. The structure is pretty solid as it's made from one block of plastic. The stone brick effect looks good enough (the wash and tinted bricks adds a lot to it). The scaffold around it, even if pretty basic breaks the monotony. Doors look like doors. The only downside is the tree that looks a bit out of place but hey, I'll turn that into a RP element: look for the abandoned guard post with the weird looking tree on tops

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3x3 textured wallpaper dungeon tiles

Published 26 June 2021


This was a proof of concept to test a new material I found: a roll of textured wallpaper and seeing if it would make acceptable dungeon tiles.


This all started with this roll of textured wallpaper I found. It has a nice texture that looks like crackled earth, but I imagined that if I were to cut it in small squares, it would make perfectly acceptable stone slabs for some kind of dungeon floor.


But, as is, it is a bit too flexible and thin, so I glued it on a piece of cereal box cardboard and started tracing squares of 2.5cm on it.


I cut the squares with a pair of scissors and got a nice pile of stone slabs. My initial gut feeling was right; this looks great.


I started sanding the edges because I thought that simple gluing the squares next to each other on a dungeon tile would not look right; I wanted to add a bit of detail that would make them look like actual stone slabs instead of simple squares.

This took some time, made some noise, and created a lot of dust and blistered fingers, but I did it.


I glued them on some beer mat I found in the same second-hand shop.


The final effect looks promising. The only issue is that the squares are a little too small for my taste. 2.5cm is fine in theory to put a miniature, but in practice it's barely enough and I'd rather have 3cm squares. Well, it was just a proof of concept to test the wallpaper anyway.


Grey overbrush on black coat.


And black wash on top.

What I learned

  • The initial texture still shows even through the various layers of glue and paint, so the drybrush is pretty effective
  • This soaks water really well, which is nice for keeping the texture, but also make it warp a lot due to the white glue I was using
  • The sanded borders I did do not look very good once painted, and take a very long time to make. I would cut the corners Wyloch-style next time.
  • 2.5cm per square is too small
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Frozen Castle Warpstone

Published 24 June 2021



This is an excavation site for a large shard of Wyrdstone/Emerald.


This all started with this Frozen toy found for 1€ in a second hand shop. At a different scale from originally intended, I thought it would make a nice Warpstone/Wyrdstone marker.


It's also hollow and translucent, so I thought I could fit a little light inside and have the flickering effect make it look like the stone was pulsating.


My initial test looked promising, the only issue was: "how would I be able to keep the translucent effect but turning it green instead of blue?"


I cut some foam to the shape of the bottom part and fitted a light inside. Not pretty, but it's also not meant to be visible.


I protected the base of the shard with some tape and applied filling paste on the base, to give it a more rugged look than the smooth plastic it was.


Once dried I applied a fair amount of wood glue...


...and sprinkled various sizes of gravel...




...and sand. I then let it dry.


And applied a coat of black mod podge to act as a base for the paint, as well as really fit the gravels/pebbles/stones in place.


I could then remove the tape.


And start painting.


I then did a drybrush of a lighter green on the stone. In order to hide the parts that were definitely not on the right scale (the entrance door and stairs), I decided to cover them with some makeshift scaffold built from balsa wood and ice cream sticks.


I now had the idea of turning it into some excavation site, where a team had already started getting this large piece of green stone from the earth and still had their scaffold and tools around.


I added a few details like this rack of tools and chest (coming from a Mantic kickstarter).


And a ladder on the other side. At this point I must say that I usually base coat and paint the whole terrain at once when crafting, but here I knew that it would be hard to paint the stone underneath the scaffold if I built everything at once, so I built it in two steps.


Covered the feet of my scaffold with more white glue again.


To add even more stone rubbles, to better merge together the various layer of the build. I'm learning to not be afraid of adding more and more layers of details, even if it means going back over something I previously painted.


And painting again in black mod podge the new addition (I painted a bit on the actual stone, oops).


Then painting the wood with the usual three brown drybrushes, from darker to lighter.


Another shot under a brighter light. As you can see, I completely abandoned the idea of having the candlelight pop through the crystal. My paint if pretty opaque, so you really need to have complete darkness in the room to barely see the light inside.


And finished with a little bit of flocking to cover the parts where I painted over the crystal or couldn't paint properly.



And the final glamor shots!

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Zombicide Green Horde Tiles - Part 2

Published 23 June 2021


I started working on my second set of tiles of Zombicide Green Horde. I'm building the tiles in the order they are needed in the base scenarios, and not in their "alphabetical order". Note that on the retail game, each tile comes as a hard cardboard tiles, printed on both side. Mine are insulation foam mounted on MDF board, and obviously only playable on one side. So, it takes a lot more space!


I started by cutting the foam to the right size and glue it to the MDF boards. Then, I started texturing the paved roads. I tried several different patterns. Initially it was to break the monotony of the boards, but in hindsight I feel it would have been better to stick to one pattern and actually use it on all boards, to have the boards work well together visually.

Still, trying different patterns gave me the opportunity to try different techniques and see which one render the best results, and also which one require the less amount of work.

Tile 15V


One the tiles was mostly covered on dried soil, so I used a roll of textured wallpaper I found in a second hand shop as the basis.


This is the thing I bought for ~2€. I can make dozens of tiles with that if the experience proves successful.


I then added wood planks made from foam, and lots of little rocks to mark the places where hedges should go. When playing with the official cardboard tiles, hedges are directly printed on it, so you know for sure where your line of sight if blocked. With my custom tiles, I wanted the same kind of information, but I wanted it to be unobtrusive with the actual tile. The compromise I found was to use those small rocks as a boundary.

The rocks are made from a think board of foam that I cut into small pieces with my nails; this gives them an uneven and jagged look.


Everything looks better with black. I was a bit wary at first that my brush strokes would be too visible on top of the textured wallpaper, but it dried pretty flat and the initial texture is very visible underneath.


After the initial covering in colors, I also repainted the cracks in the floor with a darker paint.


Added a wash on top to further bind the effect together.


More details added, especially painting some stones in various shades.


Adding more flocking, mostly to delimit the areas. Maybe I should have used less.


And sealing the flocking with liquid white glue. This looks a complete mess at this stage.

Tile 12V


For this tile, I tried other recycled materials to texture the various not-road segments. On the left, it's another textured wallpaper I found, and on the right it's simple cardboard to simulate grooves of a field.

For the main road I carved large stone slabs. They are easier (and faster) to carve than regular straight stones. I know this renders pretty well on dungeon tiles and walls, so I wanted to see how it would turn out for street paving.

The top house floor is made of planks made from foam, of varying thickness, giving this uneven look.


The traditional first coat of black mod podge.


And some base colors added.


I reinforced the patches of dirt on the left with some dark paint.


I'm not sure what happened, but the wallpaper started to turn white in spots. There must have been some kind of reaction with the highly diluted wash I used.


I covered it by re-applying paint on top.


And the flocked preview


Now fixing the flocking with highly diluted white glue.

Tile 18V


For this tile, I applied the same logic of marking the hedges with small rocks. I covered the ground of the earthy squares with a mix of water, baking soda and white glue. This gave them a rugged look but I think I should have used more baking soda, or added some sand or pebble to make it look like even more like dirt.


I made a mix of green and brown for the various tiles. Drybrushing the rocks also had the nice side effect of doing a smooth transition to the ground.


I painted some stones in various shades using highly diluted paint.


The highly diluted paint somehow reacted with my previous layers here as well, creating those ugly white stains.


Added a lot of flocking, but most of it will not stick once the glue is dry, so I'll get it back and use in other projects.


I sprayed very liquid white glue on the flocked part to seal them. Everything looks ugly at that stage, but you have to be brave and wait.


Sealing the flocking made the white stains reappear...

Tile 13V


On this one I tried another delimiter for the hedges; coffee stirrers. I don't know why but in my mind it could have looked like planks left on the floor. It looked way better in my mind than once glued on the board. I think I'll stay with the rocks idea in the future.

I also applied some baking soda/white glue/water mix on the street itself, to see if it would make it look lire it has seen some use, but the results aren't very satisfying.


The three squares at the bottom are supposed to be separate on the board, so I tried slightly different textures on them; once again to test what would look the best. Left was filling paste, center was nothing but black mod podge and right is some Vallejo texture.


The textured floor took the drybrushing well. The difference between the baking soda and the raw foam is barely noticeable.


A wash to darken everything. I used to mix black paint, water and some flow improver in very specific measurement. Nowadays, I mix black paint and water and that's it.


Colored some stones for variety.


And added flocking, mostly in recesses of the street.


I also added different kind of flocking to each square. I had just received a batch of flocking, so it was a great way to try it out.


Sealing the flocking.


The sealing left some white marks here too...

Group shots




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